Shrimp and Corn Risotto

 

While fresh corn on the cob is bountiful in markets, this is a great way to enjoy it. This risotto is delicious with just the shrimp and fresh cherry tomatoes if you don't live where fresh corn is in season. Heck, you can even eliminate the cherry tomatoes and make it a strictly shrimp risotto. I prefer to use yellow corn, rather than white, since it adds a prettier contrast to the rice. But markets here in New Jersey seem to have decided everyone wants white corn, and it's unfortunately difficult to find the yellow, so I have to be content with white most of the time. I used shrimp from the Carolinas that were purchased fresh off a boat close to our summer home in New Jersey. I may be overly cautious, but I try to buy seafood only from U.S. waters, where quality control seems more likely than in far-off Asian seas. Season the shrimp first with salt, pepper and paprika, and sear them on high heat. Then set them aside on a plate. You don't need to thoroughly cook the shrimp, since they'll finish cooking at the end when you add them to the risotto.

I used my own homemade broth to make the risotto, made with the shrimp shells and the cobs after the corn was stripped. This broth keeps well in the freezer too. It really adds tremendous flavor to the dish, but if you don't want to make it, get some clam juice or seafood broth from the store. Add some fresh thyme at the end, as well as a couple of tablespoons of butter, and you'll be lapping up every morsel on the plate.

 

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Shrimp and Corn Risotto

printable recipe here

1/2 pound shrimp

salt, pepper and paprika

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup arborio rice

3 cups broth (I used homemade broth made with corn cobs and shrimp shells)

1 shallot

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 cup white wine

about half a dozen cherry tomatoes, cut in half

2 ears of corn, stripped from the cob

fresh thyme to sprinkle in

1 tablespoons butter to stir in at the end

Season the shrimp with salt, pepper and paprika.

Sear the shrimp over high heat in a pan with some olive oil (about 2 tablespoons).

Do not need to cook the shrimp all the way through since they will cook further in the risotto.

Remove the shrimp from the pan.

Saute the minced shallot in a saucepan with the olive oil and butter until softened.

Do not let the shallots brown.

Add the raw rice and stir with the shallots, butter and olive oil over medium heat.

Add the white wine and stir.

Add a ladle ful of broth at a time, stirring all the while for the rice to absorb the liquid.

Keep adding liquid for another 15 minutes, until almost cooked.

Add the shrimp, the cherry tomatoes and the raw corn and stir.

Keep adding more liquid until the risotto is cooked and there is still a bit of liquid in the pan and movement to the risotto.

If you shake the pan, it will make an "onda" or wave.

Stir in the butter and serve.

Pistachio Gelato/Ice Cream

 

When I'm in Italy, pistachio gelato is one of my top favorites. It looks nothing at all like the fake-green pistachio ice cream you get in the U.S, but it is a more muted green or even beige-y colored. The pistachio gelato in the photo (or ice cream if you want to call it that) was made with no artificial coloring or flavoring, but was made using  a jar of pistachio paste I brought back from a recent trip to Sicily. If Italy isn't in your immediate travel plans, you can buy pistachio paste online from many sources, although I can't vouch for any particular brand. Just make sure you buy pistachio paste or cream containing all natural ingredients.

I started with a recipe for pistachio ice cream from The New York Times, but changed the proportion of milk to cream (more cream, less milk) and amped up the flavor with some Amaretto liqueur and almond flavoring. It doesn't make it taste like almond ice cream, but somehow makes the pistachio more pistachio-y. The texture is similar to gelato you get in Italy, partly due the creaminess of the pistachio paste. Don't skip the liqueur either. Not only does it add flavor, but the alcohol keeps the ice cream scoopable. If you haven't got Amaretto (or pistachio liqueur if you can find it), even a little vodka or kirsch will do the trick.

After mixing all the ingredients, following your ice cream manufacturers instructions to churn. Then place in the freezer for a few hours or overnight to firm enough for scooping. Sprinkle with a few pistachios on top to serve.

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Pistachio Gelato/Ice Cream

printable recipe here

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

⅔ cup sugar

⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt

6 large egg yolks

1 cup pistachio paste

1 teaspoon almond extract

2 Tablespoons Amaretto liqueur

Instructions:

In a small pot, simmer heavy cream, milk, sugar and salt until sugar completely dissolves, about 5 minutes.

Remove pot from heat.

In a separate bowl, whisk yolks.

Whisking constantly, slowly whisk about a third of the hot cream into the yolks, then whisk the yolk mixture back into the pot with the cream.

Return pot to medium-low heat and gently cook until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer).

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.

Whisk in pistachio paste, almond extract and Amaretto liqueur.

Cool mixture to room temperature.

Cover and chill at least 4 hours or overnight.

Churn in an ice-cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions.

Freeze until firm enough to scoop.

Pasta With Pistachio, Almond and Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto

Almonds, pistachios and tomatoes are ubiquitous in Sicily, so it’s no wonder that recipes abound using these ingredients. This pasta dish was the primo piatto we made and enjoyed in the cooking class we attended in Palermo in April, at the beautiful palace home of Duchess Nicoletta and Duke Gioacchino Lanza Tamasi, (sadly, he died May 10, 2023). I brought back some Sicilian pistachios (the town of Bronte is known for its prized pistachios) and I put them to good use making this pesto. I bought some really wonderful sun-dried tomatoes in Philadelphia’s Italian Market that were soaked in olive oil, making them exceptionally supple and flavorful. If the ones you find are dehydrated to the point of being tough and hard, soak them in some water for a while to soften and plump them. Drain and add a little olive oil. The fresh tomatoes on top are merely to add color. The big flavor is in the pesto. Nicoletta used a pasta called ruvidelli, but I served it using busiate, a classic pasta from Sicily. Feel free to use spaghetti if you like. This dish is perfect for company since you can make thepesto way ahead of time and just boil the pasta at the last minute. My guests loved it and ate everylast strand of the busiate. One pound was enough for six people as a primo piatto, but if you’re serving it as the main course, it’s enough for four people only.

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Pasta with Pistachio, Almond and Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto

printable recipe here

Ingredients

• 1 cup (50g) of sun-dried tomatoes
• ½ cup (50g) of unsalted almonds (with skin on)
• ½ cup (50g) of unsalted shelled pistachios
• A large bunch of basil
• A dozen fresh cherry tomatoes
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound (500g) of Ruvidelli, busiate or other pasta

Instructions

1. Bring water to the boil in a large pot.
2. Chop finely the sun-dried tomatoes together with the pistachios and the almonds, then add ⅔ of the basil leaves and chop them with the mixture.
3. Put the pesto into a large bowl (the one you will eventually use to serve the pasta), add ½ cup of oil and a generous amount of pepper.
4. Mix well and set aside for at least 1 hour.
5. You might have to add more oil, as the pesto absorb it quickly.
6. Cut the fresh cherry tomatoes and shred the remaining basil.
7. Set aside while the pasta is cooking.
8. Cook the pasta until al dente, drain it and turn it into the bowl.
9. Toss well, add the fresh cherry tomatoes and the basil leaves and serve immediately. Serves 5-6.

Genovese Pastries from Sicily

 

Erice is a hilltop, medieval town in Sicily with narrow cobblestone streets, a Norman castle and a fabulous bakery called Maria Grammatico. The eponymous bakery has plentiful Sicilian treats including these pastries known as "Genovese." While staying in Erice last month, I was perplexed by the name of the pastry, which refers to the town of Genoa, nowhere near Sicily. After returning home, I found a couple of explanations in La Cucina Italiana : "The name of this delicacy – which is not at all Sicilian – probably comes from its shape, which resembles the cap of Genoese sailors who stopped at the ports of Sicily between 1300 and 1500. Another hypothesis, which is decidedly more romantic, claims that the genovesi come from the love between a girl from Erice and a young Ligurian boy: the girl gave the name to the dessert she made for her beloved."

No matter the origin, genovese are delicious, and are filled with a lemony custard, enveloped in a shortbread pastry, or pasta frolla. Maria spent 15 years in a convent after her father died and her mother was left with six children to raise amid the poverty of post-World War II Sicily. It was a difficult life, with little to eat, although the nuns made pastries to raise funds, and Maria absorbed that knowledge and opened her own shop in 1963. Her account of growing up in the convent is one of loneliness and hardship and is recounted in her book, "Bitter Almonds", written with Mary Taylor Simeti. The book includes various recipes, including this one for Genovese.

Be careful not to overcook the custard, or you could end up with scrambled eggs. I ran the custard through a sieve to eliminate any possible lumps.

Roll out the dough, place a heaping spoonful of the filling on top, then moisten the edges with water and place another disc of dough on top, pressing down to seal the edges.

Bake until just barely tan.

They are served warm at Maria's shop, sprinkled with powdered sugar.

They're delicious at room temperature too.

Here are just a few of the other treats for sale at Maria Grammatico's:

martorana (almond paste) fruits:

Cassatine:

and a fig-filled ring (buccelatto or cuccidato):

 

A trip to Erice is like a trip back in time, with its tiny cobbled streets and alleys:

 

And the castle of Venus, a 12th century Norman castle:

The 14th century duomo and bell tower:

 

And the stunning views from Erice out to Trapani and the Mediterranean Sea:

 

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Genovese

printable recipe here

Ingredients:

FOR THE DOUGH (PASTA FROLLA):

1 3/4 c. flour

1/2 cup sugar

2 egg yolks

4 Tablespoons ice water

FOR THE CREMA PASTICCIERA:

2 egg yolks

3/4 cup sugar plus 2 Tablespoons

1/4 cup cornstarch

1 1/2 cups milk

grated zest of 1/2 lemon

Directions:

FOR THE PASTRY:

Place the flour, sugar and egg yolks in a food processor and whir until blended.

Add the ice water a tablespoon at a time until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.

Do not add too much water or it will be difficult to work the dough.

Turn the dough onto a floured surface and form into a flat disc.

Refrigerate at least 30 minutes before rolling out.

FOR THE FILLING:

Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar in a small heavy saucepan without turning on the heat.

Dissolve tthe cornflour in a quarter of the milk in a glass or mixing cup, then gradually add the rest of the milk and mix well.

Slowly pour the milk mixture into tthe egg mixture, whisking until blended.

Place over low heaat and cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring constantly, until shiny and very thick, the consistency of pudding.

Or cook in a double boiler for 20 to 25 minutes.

Stir in tthe lemon zest.

Pour into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap placed directly on top of the cream.

Cool and refrigerate until ready to use.

TO ASSEMBLE THE GENOVESE:

Cut the dough into four parts.

Work with one part and keep the rest refrigerated.

Roll out thinly and cut out circles, using a 3 inch biscuit or cookie cutter.

Place about a tablespoon or slightly more of the filling in the center of one of the discs.

Wet the perimeter of the disc with water, then top with another disc and press down on the edges.

Bake on parchment paper in a 375 degree oven for 15 -20 minutes until tops are slightly tan in color.

Cool briefly and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Best eaten warm but delicious at room temperature too.

 

Sicilian Potato Salad and Cooking With The Duchess

On my recent trip to Sicily, I had the good fortune to cook with literary nobility. Let me explain. The above recipe from the cooking session appears at the end, so if you’re here just for the food, skip to the bottom of this post. But then you’d miss learning about a slice of Sicilian history.

One of my all-time favorite books is “The Leopard” by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. I first read it in Italian (“Il Gatttopardo”) more than 30 years ago, and have read it in English twice since. It’s a masterpiece of literature and considered one of the 100 greatest books ever written, chronicling the decline of Sicily’s aristocracy, and the rise of the middle class during the unification of Italy in 1861, known as “Risorgimento.” Initially rejected by publishers, it was published in 1958, a year after the author’s death, and went on to become an international success, selling more than 3 million copies, in more than 30 languages. The book was also adapted into an opulent (and excellent) movie in 1963, starring Burt Lancaster, Alain Delon and Claudia Cardinale.

Tomasi di Lampedusa, who was himself a prince, modeled the main character (Don Fabrizio, Prince of Salina) after his great grandather, Don Giulio Fabrizio Tomasi, another prince of Lampedusa.

The book’s main character was modeled after the author’s great grandfather, who was an amateur star-gazer, as is the protagonist in the book.

In the book, the prince dotes on his nephew and “adopted” son, Tancredi, while in real life, the author, who had no heirs, really did adopt his distant cousin, Gioacchino (Giò) Lanza Tamasi, who was already part of a different Italian aristocratic family.

Sadly, as I was writing this blog post, I learned that Giò died last week in his Palermo home – Palazzo Lanza Tamasi on via Butera, the palace that was once home to Lampedusa after his original home on via Lampedusa was bombed during World War II.

A few weeks ago, I found myself sitting next to Giò during a luncheon in the 17th century palazzo, following a wonderful day of shopping and cooking with his wife Nicoletta, the duchess. Although duke and duchess, they were extremely down-to-earth and use their first names in introductions.

It almost seems trivial to write about our deliciously fun day of cooking last month after learning of Giò’s death this week, but the classes are vital in maintaining the palazzo, since upkeep on Palermo palaces doesn’t come cheap. There are a number of apartments in the palace that Nicoletta rents out to visitors also. If you’re planning a trip to Palermo, do yourself a favor and check out her website: Butera 28.

We began the day with a short trip to one of the city’s markets — Capo — to buy provisions for the lunch, then Nicoletta directed us in the preparation for the various courses. The menu was printed for everyone, headlined by the family crest:

We strolled through their ample patio overlooking the sea, to harvest herbs and lemons for the meal:

We all took a hand in chopping, squeezing, peeling, stirring or whatever needed to be done — from the youngest —

to the oldest (my husband and I, without a doubt)

Through it all, the energetic Nicoletta directed us with humor but also the conviction of a drill sergeant — “No, that’s still not chopped finely enough….” or “You missed some of the flesh, keep scraping the eggplant….

She cooked right alongside us, with a knowledgeable and sure hand in whatever task was needed. The kitchen was equipped with a fabulous batterie du cuisine:

And plentiful local ingredients, including capers from Pantelleria, which were used in the recipe at the end of this post.

When our preparations were complete, we sat down to a multi-course lunch in a gorgeous dining room overlooking the sea.

During lunch, it was a privilege to sit next to Giò. He was an accomplished music critic, author, professor, director of several theater and opera companies during his lifetime, and one-time director of the Italian Cultural Center in New York, just to name a few of his numerous achievements. He was keeper of the flame for his adopted uncle’s literary heritage, and with his death, it also feels like the last living legend of “Il Gattopardo” has also gone.

Nicoletta gave us a tour of the palazzo after lunch, starting with the vast library:

There were several sitting rooms, including this one with yellow upholstered furniture, precious tapestries, art work, and Venetian chandeliers.

Another room in the palace:

With a photograph of Giò and Nicoletta earlier in their 40-year marriage:

In addition to paintings with historic, religious or mythical subjects, family ancestors were also captured for posterity:

Including a couple of sketches of family members by Picasso:

But for me, the highlight of the tour through the palace was seeing the original manuscript of “Il Gattopardo” written in Lampedusa’s own handwriting:

It’s sad to think he didn’t live long enough to see the success and popularity of his masterpiece.

Here is a photo of the author with more of his handwritten manuscript:

The members of the cooking class had come from the U.S., France and Germany and were a happy, easy-going group of travelers.

While there were several courses, I’m posting the recipe for just one here — a potato salad that would be perfect for that picnic you might be thinking about now that the weather has warmed. I came back from Sicily armed with the salted capers from Pantelleria that Nicoletta uses in this recipe. I also brought back sea salt from nearby Trapani, where salt has been harvested for decades. If you aren’t planning a trip to Sicily, you can buy both online from Gustiamo.com. The photo below is the dish we prepared that day, using the famed red onions from Tropea, impossible to find in the U.S. In the absence of those, supermarket red onions will stand in just fine.

We were too late to rent an apartment at Palazzo Lanza Tamasi. However, we rented a modern apartment in Lampedusa’s original palazzo that was bombed on Via Lampedusa, very centrally located in a quiet street.

The entrance includes a wall with writings from Lampedusa:

There are several apartments for rent. If you’re interested, send me an email and I will send you the rental info:

Check out Ciao Chow Linda on Instagram here to find out what’s cooking in my kitchen each day (and more).

Click Here For Printable Recipe

Sicilian Potato Salad

Ingredients:

2 pounds (1kg) of potatoes

1 pound (1⁄2 kg) of tomatoes, optional

1⁄4 cup of salt preserved capers

1 tablespoon of dried oregano

1 medium red onion

Good red wine vinegar

Extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

Small new potatoes and Roma or San Marzano tomatoes would be ideal for this recipe. 

Directions:

Steam the potatoes until done, peel and cut them in large chunks.

Put them in a bowl, let them cool.

If using, cut also the tomatoes in bite-size pieces, seed them and add them to the potatoes.

Thoroughly but delicately rinse the capers and gently pat them dry.

Thinly sliced the onion in rings.

Add the capers and the onion rings to the bowl.

Sprinkle the oregano and the pepper.

In a little jug, mix the oil and the vinegar (1/3 of vinegar and 2/3 of oil).

Dress the salad with this mixture just before serving, otherwise the potatoes absorb all the oil and become soggy.

Serves 6-8.